Being Irish and living in the United States, I get asked a lot about Ireland. It seems to be on everyone’s bucket list! I get asked about where to go, when’s the best time to visit … or even asked to come visit with me the next time I go home! So I thought I’d help this process along a little bit, and put together a few “insider” tips and suggestions for all ye* American folk who’d like to visit the Emerald Isle.
Actually, this past July I was home for a visit, so this blog post is inspired by that trip. I’m sure this is one of many future installments of the insider’s guide to visiting Ireland!
1. When To Go
The Weather
Weather, people. The weather. When talking about tips and tricks for visiting the Emerald Isle, we need to get down to the nitty gritty before we go any further …
People, the country isn’t lusciously green for no reason. That reason is RAIN. Light rain. Soft rain. Drizzly rain. Hard beating down rain. Rain of all types. We have it all. And all year round. So unless you’re a big fan of precipitation, you’re going to want to plan your trip when there is the least chance of it!
While never a guarantee, visiting during the summer months gives you a better chance of relatively dry and warm weather. Typically July and August. I’ve recently returned from a 2 week holiday* in July and it was glorious. I know I’m biased, but I do think Ireland is the most gorgeous country in the whole entire world, when the sun is out.
In fairness, our mild temperate climate means that no matter what time of year you visit, you won’t ever experience huge dramatic extremes. The average daytime temperatures are approximately 18°C (65°F) in summer, and 5°C (41°F) in winter. For more information on our seasons and what to expect at different times of the year, click this link The weather in Ireland.
Daylight Hours
Growing up in Ireland I took the long summer evenings for granted. It was just simply what happened at that time of the year. (And we paid the price with those short winter days). Living in Austin, Texas, we are happy with our “long” summer evenings with light lasting up until 8 – 8:30pm. But hop over across the Atlantic and skip up a few latitude lines and suddenly you’ve got light until 10:30 – 11pm! It feels a little bit magical and delightfully surreal in the beginning. One of the best things about it is that it super elongates your days, making you feel like you’ve nearly got 2 days in one.
Brian and I loved wandering around the streets of Cork City in the evening times. To us it would feel like 8pm but it would actually be 10pm. Brilliant!
With the summer solstice (June 21st) being the longest day of the year, travelling to Ireland close to this date is a super enlightening idea!
2. What To Pack
No matter what time of year you plan to visit, you must plan for varied weather conditions. The key is to bring layers. Layers, people. If visiting during the summer, short sleeves are all fine and well, but you need back up. Light long sleeves, warmer long sleeves, and the jewel in your suitcase? … Rain gear!
A rain jacket and umbrella will go a long way. Being surrounded by the sea and getting washed by that gulf stream keeps our little country nice and temperate, so you’ll never be sweltering hot or freezing cold for days on end. So light rain gear in the summer is fine.
Other clothing tips … jeans are great year round. I love going home during the spring, autumn or winter seasons too, as I get a chance to wear my favourite boots and all my scarves! A good pair of walking (hiking) shoes is also an important thing to have in your luggage. Besides visiting the cities, you’re going to want to get out into rural Ireland and go on some more rugged adventures. Usually a good pair of runners* will do the trick. But if you’re planning more strenuous hikes, water proof walking boots would be mighty altogether!
3. Where to Visit
Ok, so you’re all packed and ready to go. Now where to visit when you land? Well that answer is potentially unending, and undoubtedly will be subject to future blog post meanderings. But for now, inspired by my most recent visit, here’s a pretty good start to your “where to visit in Ireland” list.
Best Irish City to Visit – Cork City
Cork is Ireland’s largest and most southern county, and home to our second largest city, Cork City (approx. 200,000 population). Cork people are wildly proud to hail from the so-called “rebel county”, and prefer to think of their cherished city as the real Irish capital (the actual capital, of course, being Dublin)! It’s fair to say that Cork people see themselves as being that little bit different (or should I say, special) from the rest of the country. As in, there’s Cork and then there’s the rest of the country that has the misfortune of not being Cork!! They also love flying their “People’s Republic of Cork” flags, branded with a single white star. (Anything about this sound familiar to ye Texans out there?!)
While Cork is, in Cork terms, “weak for itself*”, you too will most likely fall for its charms! In fact, last year Cork was voted the third friendliest city in the world. And with the first 2 cities being in Mexico and the Dominican Republic, that means Cork is Europe’s friendliest city! That’s pretty cool, y’all! And I have to say, Cork people are pretty darn friendly! (special note: Cork natives speak incredibly fast and like they’re singing a song … so tune in close, be patient and keep smiling and nodding!!)
Now before you get any ideas, I am not singing the city’s praises because I am a Corkonian. I do not hail from the rebel county, BUT I did go to college there (University College Cork), live and work there for years, and, as it happens, I also got married there (and not to a Cork man either, but a Cajun. But that’s a whole different story!). So I am partial to the place, and know it pretty well.
To help you get your bearings, the city is a quick and scenic one hour train ride south from Limerick Junction (which is close to my home), and a two and a half hour train ride from Dublin. You’ll find all the country’s train schedules on IrishRail.ie.
Cork, as described by my husband on his first visit here, is perfectly “quaint”. While I did take some offense to this term in the early days (“Quaint? It’s my country’s second largest city not some cute cabin in the woods” type reaction), I do have to admit that after living in the States for years and returning home for a few weeks every year or so, there is something really charming and old worldly about these meandering streets and bustling laneways.
Cork is the ideal strollable city with bucket loads of character at every turn. With its thriving café culture, definitely give yourself time to simply just sit at a wee street side coffee shop, sipping some Barry’s Tea (a Cork staple), and watching the world go by.
Cork is a great foodie city too. To get a real taste for the local food scene, visit The English Market – a super atmospheric mid-19th century indoor market featuring artisan food stalls, fishmongers, butchers, bakers (maybe even some candlestick makers!). I also love wandering through the narrow laneways off the main street. These ancient lanes have some cool cosmopolitan eateries, and more great people-watching cafes.
If cosy corners, candle clusters, fiddle playing, and pints of Guinness are your thing, then you have to get yourself to one of Cork’s many heritage pubs. Pub culture is very much alive and kicking all over the country, but it’s a real treat to pay a visit to one of these centuries old establishments steeped in culture, character and Irish stout!
If you’re looking for some real Irish music, these are the places to find it. Don’t go paying a fortune for some fancy Irish music tourist experience (unless you want to, that is!). You’ll find the real deal right here in a pub like this – random gatherings of people playing together in some corner or other, while you sip your beer and munch on your chips*.
To complete the Cork experience, top the evening off with a pint of Murphys – the Cork equivalent to the more well known (and ubiquitous) Guinness. Sláinte!*
Best Epic Irish Scenery – The Cliffs of Moher & The Burren
When I fly home, I mostly fly into Shannon Airport in County Clare, just north of Limerick City. It’s our largest airport on the west coast of Ireland, and conveniently for me, only about a 45 minute drive from home. Flying into Shannon as opposed to Dublin Airport provides you with instant access to the south and west coasts of Ireland, and all that they have to offer.
On arrival into Shannon, visitors are greeted by large wall-sized images of The Cliffs of Moher – Ireland’s highest sea cliffs glistening in the sunshine. Deemed “Ireland’s Favourite Tourist Attraction”, the cliffs are only an hour’s drive west of Shannon, and a firm destination on most Irish tourist itineraries. (FYI, you can hire a car at Shannon airport. For more information visit Shannon Airport car hire).
The Cliffs of Moher are on the west coast of County Clare, facing out onto the wild Atlantic. This is one of those times where your good runners or walking boots will be handy, as well as that rain gear you packed!
When I was young, I remember my dad pointing out the broad atlantic ocean that lay beyond these cliffs – and saying that the next landmass way over there across the ocean was America. It seemed very foreign and epically far away to that small girl at the time. It seems strange to think that she ended up marrying a lad from way over there across that huge and wild ocean. But lucky for me, it’s not all that epically far away after all …
The Cliffs of Moher are situated on the edge of one of the most unique landscapes in Ireland, if not Europe – The Burren. The word “Burren” comes from the Irish word “Boíreann” meaning a rocky place, and that perfectly describes this part of County Clare. For miles and miles there is nothing but rugged limestone stripped bare by glaciers that passed through the region during the end of the last ice age. You can drive through the Burren landscape for a long time, but make sure and get out and explore a little on foot too. While the Cliffs of Moher nearby are humming with tourists, the stark isolated beauty of this bare limestone land will soothe your soul.
One of the many things I love about being Irish, is how ancient our land feels and how deep our cultural roots are. Being Irish, especially living in rural Ireland, you are used to seeing ancient fairy forts* in the fields or crumbled castles on little hill tops. There’s a deep sense of belonging to a place, when you know your people have been here exactly where you are now, for thousands of years.
This portal dolmen perched on the Burren’s karst limestone expanse has been here for over 5,800 years – testimony to an ancient land and a culture with deep and lasting roots.
Best Irish Castle Experience – Kilkenny Castle
Castles. Americans love castles! Irish people don’t get as excited about castles, but we still do like them, all the same! There’s a lot of different types of castle experiences you can have in Ireland, from climbing up windy stone stairs to kiss a manky ole stone to give you the gift of the gab (Blarney Castle), to staying at a five star castle and golf resort while enjoying Michelin star cuisine (Dromoland Castle). One of my castle recommendations for you – Kilkenny Castle.
In my husband’s words, as we entered the courtyard and Kilkenny Castle emerged into full view: “Now that’s a castle!”
So why am I recommending this castle in particular? Well some tout Kilkenny Castle as one of Ireland’s most beautiful castles. And it is pretty fabulous, I have to say. Unlike a lot of castles scattered across the country, Kilkenny Castle has been beautifully restored and gorgeously refurbished. You can tour inside the castle all year round for a nominal fee (learn more about Kilkenny Castle tickets and times here), or just walk around the castle grounds and enjoy the castle vibes from the outside. For an 800 year old building, it’s not too shabby. What do you think?
What I think is one of the best things about this castle is that it’s located right in the heart of one of Ireland’s most picturesque cities, Kilkenny City. The castle is not just some isolated historic structure, but is integrated into everyday city life here. A lot of tourist experiences can keep you in spectator mode … jump off the bus, see a castle, take some photos and off you go somewhere else. Instead, I suggest perhaps staying in Kilkenny City a day or two and engage in a living experience with this castle and ancient city.
Kilkenny City (which is really more a big town, with a population of about 8000 people!) is situated inland on the River Nore, in the eastern province of Ireland. We travelled here via a two and a half hour bus ride from Cork City, passing through Waterford City and skirting some of the southern coastline on the way. The city is also easily accessible from Dublin, taking one and a half hours, via the same bus company. Check out DublinCoach.ie for more information.
Kilkenny offers lots of very cool medieval feels! With the castle built in 1195, the city flourished around it for hundreds of years, and still does to this day. Amble through the city’s cobbled streets and narrow stone passageways, catching glimpses of the castle as you round certain street corners. Shop, sip, dine, and enjoy the ancient vibe. A super bonus for me is that my sister and her family lives here too. We get to enjoy some sister time retail therapy under these stone arches!
Need a little rest after an afternoon of shopping and city exploring? Well take a little walk to the nearby castle grounds where you can relax in the rose garden, or enjoy a picnic on the fifty acres of rolling green parkland beyond the castle entrance.
Green fields, blue sky and a castle … If this isn’t a picture perfect Irish experience, I don’t know what is!
Le Grá / With Love,
Brenda
Irish to Americanese Translations!
Glossary of Irish terms used in this blog post:
ye* = Irish plural for you (and the Irish version of y’all)
holiday* = vacation
runners* = tennis shoes / sneakers
weak for itself* = finds itself faintworthy / in love with itself (is that right, Cork peeps?)
chips* = fries but much much better!
Sláinte!* = The Irish language equivalent of “Cheers”. The direct translation means “Health”.
fairy forts* = late iron age to early Christian ring forts scattered around the Irish landscape (read more about fairy forts)
